Dispersing emulsifierIt is the core equipment to realize the uniform mixing of materials, fine particles, and stable system in cosmetics production. From the thick and heavy system of cream to the light and thin system of essence, it ensures the effective play of product texture, stability, and functional ingredients through shearing, dispersion, emulsification and other functions.
1、 The core principle of dispersing emulsifier
The dispersing emulsifier mainly uses a high-speed rotating rotor and stator to produce three core functions, adapting to different cosmetic systems:
Shear emulsification: the strong shear force generated by the rotor stator gap breaks the oil/water phase interfacial tension, breaking large droplets into small droplets, forming a stable O/W (oil in water) or W/O (water in oil) lotion.
Particle dispersion: Refine powders (such as titanium dioxide and mica) and functional solid components (such as ceramide crystals) to avoid agglomeration and achieve uniform dispersion.
Homogenization of the system: Eliminating concentration and particle differences within the material, improving overall product stability, and reducing the risk of stratification and settling.
2、 Application in cream products (face cream, lotion, foundation cream, etc.)
Cream products are mostly viscous water oil emulsion systems, often containing oil, wax, powder or high content moisturizing ingredients, with extremely high requirements for texture, delicacy and stability.
1. Material characteristics
The proportion of oil phase/water phase is balanced (for example, the proportion of oil phase in face cream is 30% -50%), containing solid wax (such as beeswax, lanolin) or powder (such as titanium dioxide in concealer foundation make-up).
The system has high viscosity (Brinell viscosity 10000-50000 cP), which is prone to problems such as clumping, floating oil, and powder settling.
2. Equipment selection
Main equipment: Vacuum homogenization emulsifier (with scraper stirring+high-speed homogenization head), suitable for intermittent production; High viscosity cream can be paired with frame mixing.
Auxiliary equipment: colloid mill (further refining powder particles).
3. Key points of the process
Pre treatment: Heat the oil phase (grease, wax) to 75-85 ℃ to melt, and heat the water phase (water, moisturizer, thickener) to 80-90 ℃ to dissolve, and keep them separately warm.
Emulsification stage: Pump the oil phase into the emulsification pot, slowly add the water phase, turn on the homogenization head for high-speed shearing (8000-12000 rpm), and continue for 15-30 minutes; The scraper stirring operates synchronously to avoid coking of the sticky material on the pot wall.
Vacuum treatment: During the emulsification process, evacuate (-0.06~-0.09 MPa) to remove bubbles and prevent pinholes or oxidation of the paste.
Cooling stage: after homogenization, cool to below 40 ℃ under low-speed stirring (100-200 rpm), add essence and active ingredients (such as vitamin E) to avoid inactivation at high temperature.
4. Application value
Solve the problems of "rubbing mud" and "clumping" in cream, ensuring good extensibility of the cream and smooth skin texture; Vacuum environment can reduce product oxidation and deterioration, and extend shelf life.
3、 Application of essence products (aqueous essence, oil soluble essence, compound essence)
Essence products are mainly light and thin systems, with high concentration of effective ingredients (such as hyaluronic acid and retinol). They have strict requirements on permeability and stability of ingredients, and need to adapt different emulsification and dispersion schemes according to dosage forms.
1. Aqueous essence (hyaluronic acid essence, nicotinamide essence)
Material characteristics: Water phase accounts for more than 90%, containing small molecule active ingredients, the system is light and thin (viscosity 500-5000 cP), without oil phase or a small amount of cosolvents.
Equipment selection: High speed disperser (rotor stator type) or online high shear emulsifier (continuous production).
Key points of the process: first dissolve moisturizing agents (such as glycerol) and thickeners (such as carbomer), adjust the pH, add functional ingredients (such as niacin), start high-speed dispersion (5000-8000 rpm), and continue for 5-10 minutes; Filter impurities through a filter screen, remove bubbles, and then fill.
Application value: ensure the uniform distribution of small molecular components, avoid local high concentration irritating the skin, and ensure that the essence feels fresh and not greasy.
2. Oil soluble essence (retinol essence oil, essential oil essence)
Material characteristics: Based on vegetable oil and esters, it contains fat soluble active ingredients (such as retinol and coenzyme Q10), and requires refined particle size to enhance absorption.
Equipment selection: Colloidal mill (gap 0.05-0.1mm) or high shear dispersing emulsifier.
Process key points: Heat the oil to 40-50 ℃, add the active ingredient, and grind it through a colloid mill 2-3 times to make the particle size of the ingredient<1 μ m; After cooling, let it stand for defoaming to ensure that the essence oil has no particle feeling.
Application value: Breaking the aggregation particles of fat soluble components, improving skin penetration efficiency, and reducing the risk of "stuffy acne".
3. Compound essence (water oil dual phase essence, microemulsion essence)
Material characteristics: water oil dual phase system (such as essence oil+layered essence of water phase, microemulsion essence) needs stable emulsification and small particle size (nanometer level).
Equipment selection: Small vacuum emulsifier (laboratory/small batch) or micro jet homogenizer (industrial nanoemulsion).
Key points of the process: After pre-treatment of the aqueous and oil phases, they are emulsified by high-speed shear at 10000-15000 rpm in an emulsifying tank; The micro jet homogenizer reduces the particle size of lotion to 50-200 nm through high pressure (1000-3000 bar) to form stable microemulsion.
Application value: Achieve long-term stability and non layering of water oil systems, enhance the absorption rate of functional ingredients with nanoscale droplets, and make the skin feel lighter and lighter.